Monday, 23 January 2017

Issues with first Jumper experiment

Design & fit issues
The first jumper prototype has turned out quite well generally but has failed to meet some of the design requirements.

  • The under-bust and waist of the jumper a a little too full and should be a neater fit. 
  • The torso length is a little too long and puffs out more than I'd like above the ribbed waist area. 
  • The back neck is too high causing excess fabric to puff out and not lie neatly enough against the neck. 
  • The sleeves are a little too loose especially at the cuff edge. 
  • The neckline is too high and looks clumsy at the join. 
  • The arm hole shaping on the sleeves is irregular and puffs out under the armpits. 
  • The raglan angle is not acute enough on the torso and too acute on the sleeves.
  • The bust shaping is more noticeable at the side bust than I would like.


Adjustments

Back
  • Cast on stitches have been reduced to make waist and under-bust narrower.
  • Number of initial rows has been reduced to shorten torso length and reduce amount of excess material puffing out above the waist.
  • Frequency of decreases in raglan shaping increased to make a more acute raglan angle.
  • Number of rows in raglan shaping reduced to lower the back neck and eliminate excess material there.
Front

  • Same amendments as for back to adjust width, length and raglan angle. 
  • Bust shaping moved back towards the side seams to be less conspicuous.
  • Number of rows above bust shaping reduced to lower the front neck. 
Sleeves
  • Cast on stitches have been reduced to make sleeves narrower.
  • Frequency of decreases in raglan shaping increased to match front and back.
  • Number of stitches in raglan shaping reduced to make raglan shaping more obtuse in the lower part. Number of stitches increased in the upper part to ensure sleeve top will still come to point as this is required of design.






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